Home Renovation Tax Credits

The Federal Government revealed the Home Renovation Tax Credit in its budget on Jan. 27, 2009. If you are thinking that maybe you might be able to manage a couple of small jobs, now may be the time. After all, if you keep the renovation budget to $10,000, you'll get $1,350 back — a saving of 13.5 per cent.

What is covered?

The tax credit kicks in on expenditures over $1,000, and you won't get any tax relief for what you spend over $10,000. So your tax savings on a $20,000 job will still be $1,350 — or a saving of 6.75 per cent.

The variety of expenditures that qualify for the tax credit is wide. Among them:
• Renovating your kitchen, bathroom or basement.
• Painting your house.
• Installing new carpeting or flooring.
• Replacing your heating/air conditioning system.
• Upgrading the insulation in your home, resurfacing your driveway or replacing you lawn with new sod.
Just about any job that improves your home or cottage — or any combination of jobs that improves either or both — qualifies for the credit.

Buying furniture, a big-screen TV, cleaning your carpets, buying tools or performing regular maintenance on your home won't get you the tax credit.

The Home Renovation Tax Credit can be coupled with other government programs that put money back into your pocket when you renovate your home. For instance, making your home more energy-efficient can qualify you for grants of up to $5,000 under the ecoENERGY Retrofit Program. You will still be able to claim the Home Renovation Tax Credit so essentially you can "double dip"
The same applies for eligible expenditures that are claimed under the Medical Expense Tax Credit.

While doing the work yourself will give you the most bang for your buck, jobs that you pay a contractor to do also qualify. Expenses such as labour, building permits, equipment rentals, professional services and incidentals are also eligible.
Municipalities regulate building permits, so you should check with your local officials before you begin your job. If your renovation involves structural changes to your home, pumbing or electrical work, you will most likely need a permit.

One of the major goals of the program, which is expected to cost the government $3 billion, is to stimulate local economies. Most of the material you buy to fix up your home is likely made in Canada and sold at your local hardware store (although it's as likely to be a U.S.-owned big-box store as a Canadian-owned big-box outlet).

One tax credit per family Unlike the Home Buyers' Plan, where each spouse can withdraw up to $25,000 from their RRSP to put toward a down payment on a first house, the Home Renovation Tax Credit is limited to one credit per family. While you can make claims for work done at more than one residence you own, the maximum any family can get back is $1,350. But a family can share the credit.
You'll be able to claim the credit on your return for the 2009 tax year. All material has to be purchased and work has to be finished no later than Feb. 1, 2010.

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Dryer vents

Question:

What is the proper way to vent a clothes dryer?

Answer:

Here are some facts from the United States Fire Administration.

Dryer exhaust should vent directly outside the home. In some new homes, washers and dryers are placed in non traditional areas of the house, including upstairs bedrooms, hallways and closets. These new sites generally require longer dryer vents in order to reach an ouside wall and may contain sharp turns and bends that snake through the home.

Remember:

Dryer vents should not be longer than the equivalent of 25 feet ( five feet is added to the actual vent length for each 90 degree bend in the vent).

When lint has to pass through an exhaust that is under a floor or through walls and is more than 6 feet long, it is almost impossible for all the lint to be propelled out of the vent.

Lint can also accumulate in pockets along the vent where it is harder to reach and clean.

As a result, it is crucial for homeowners to regularly inspect and clean out the dryer vent. In fact, all manufacturers now state in their manuals not to use plastic flexible dryer ducts between the vent and the clothes dryer. However, many existing homes as well as some new construction, continue to use plastic flexible ducts. The plastic itself can provide additional fuel for a fire. Even flexible foil vents are not the best choice for venting clothes dryers. Flexible vents can sag, allowing lint to build up and catch fire if it comes in contact with a sufficient amount of heat. If a fire starts beneath the dryer when the motor overheats, then the drafts from the dryer can pull that fire up into the duct and venting, allowing a house fire to develop.

To avoid problems, make sure you disconnect, clean and inspect the dryer and venting at least once a year, or hire a professional company to clean the dryer components.


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Urea Formaldehyde Insulation- New Controversy

Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) is again in the news. An Ontario Company has been ordered by the Federal Government to stop selling a formaldehyde based insulation that has already been installed in about 700 homes.

Justice Minister Rob Nicholson announced a “cease and desist “order against the company RetroFoam. Canada Border Services has also been alerted to stop further importation of the product.

The Company claims that its formulation is safe and is not the same as the Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) banned in 1980 due to potential health concerns related to elevated levels of formaldehyde following installation.

UFFI was extensively used in Canada between 1975 and 1978 and it is estimated that over 100,000 homes were insulated with UFFI during that time. Its use was eventually banned in December 1980.
The fear of health problems caused the federal government to set guidelines for reducing formaldehyde levels in houses. The initial threshold level set for formaldehyde gas was 1.0 part per million (ppm). As testing methods improved the level was reduced to 0.1 ppm. Interestingly subsequent testing found that formaldehyde gas levels in houses insulated with UFFI were well below the 0.1 ppm level and it became apparent that levels of formaldehyde decrease rapidly after the foam has been installed, typically returning to ambient house levels within several days.


Statistics showed in fact that of the homes tested, on average formaldehyde levels were slightly below that of homes of similar age without UFFI. The problems with UFFI were not substantiated and extensive testing has shown that health concerns appear to have been overstated. In my opinion home owners with the UFFI insulation that was installed in the 70’s need not be concerned and should continue to enjoy their homes.

It should be noted that formaldehyde is found in other building materials such as particle board, plywood, carpets and many other common items. If you have a concern about your indoor air quality, consult with a qualified Environmental Consultant or Air Quality Specialist.

Preventing Ice dams

The cold weather is upon us and brings with it some home problems that are specific to Northern cold climates. Ice dams can be seen in both old and new homes and if left unchecked can lead to severe structural damage.

What is an Ice Dam?
Generally deeper snow and colder temperatures increase the formation of ice dams.
An ice dam is an accumulation of ice that builds up along the edge of a roof. The eavestrough may be overflowing with ice and there may be icicles hanging from the edge.


What causes an ice dam?
Snow build up effectively acts as an insulator on the roof. Heat from the attic warms the underside of the snow and melts the bottom layer. This water then runs under the snow cover and down the roof until it hits a cold surface like the overhang, where it refreezes.
As the cold spell continues the ice becomes thicker.

Why is this a problem?
The ice build up acts as a dam for the water running off beneath the snow. This can cause a back up and the water has to run somewhere. In severe cases that means under the roof shingles soaking the roof sheathing, insulation, wood framing and possibly your interior ceiling. Uncorrected the water can cause serious structural damage.

Prevention:
Ice dams can be prevented by eliminating heat build up in the attic. The following steps combine to help keep the temperature inside the attic nearly the same as the outside temperature:

1. Seal openings that allow heated inside air to rise into the attic. The attic hatch is of particular importance. This should be insulated and weather-stripped. All penetrations of wiring, plumbing pipes and wood framing into the attic should be sealed with caulk or expandable foam insulation. The spaces around chimneys should be sealed with sheet metal and high temperature caulk.

2. Make sure that bathroom exhaust fans do not discharge directly to the attic. The exhaust duct should be insulated and the area between the frame of the fan and the ceiling sealed.

3. Improve insulation to slow heat transfer into the attic. Current recommendations are for approximately 12 inches of Fiberglass bat insulation (R38+) or equivalent blown in type.

4. Improve ventilation to cool the attic space and remove unwanted moisture. (Note: Make sure that you do not block soffit vents when adding insulation.) Passive type ventilation such as soffit vents, ridge vents and/or high level exhaust vents are best. Powered exhaust vents are not generally recommended as they can cause negative pressure in the attic drawing more warm air from the heated space.

Energy Saving Tips for the Home

(ARA) - Looking for ways to save money? According to The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM), a good place to start is in the kitchen. Replacing older, inefficient appliances with more modern appliances is a leading way for consumers to reap tremendous energy savings.
That's great advice considering the fact that the amount of energy consumed by home appliances has dropped sharply since 2000. Refrigerators, dishwashers and clothes washers combined account for a 43 percent decrease in energy consumption since 2000, and decreasing energy consumption in turn drops cost.
Replacing an 8- year-old refrigerator, dishwasher and clothes washer with new appliances of average efficiency will save consumers about $95 per year in energy bills. Replacing an 8- year-old clothes washer will save more than $60 in electricity costs and nearly 5,000 gallons of water per year.
Consumers can attain additional savings by purchasing Energy Star designated appliances. Here are some more energy savings tips:
* If you are replacing your refrigerator, do not use the old refrigerator as a second refrigerator. This will not yield energy savings. Properly recycle the appliance. To find recycling options in your area, call (800) YES-1-CAN.
* Allow hot foods to cool before placing them in the refrigerator; and always cover foods that may release moisture in the refrigerator.
* Limit opening the refrigerator and freezer doors. Label foods or use clear food storage bags to easily identify foods.
* Scrape, but do not pre-rinse dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Dishwashers do a great job of cleaning soiled dishes.
* Take advantage of your dishwasher's "eco" option that reduces water use, or use a no-heat air dry feature.
* Use load size settings on your washing machine. If you are washing a small load of clothing, be sure to change the load setting; and use cold water settings whenever possible.
* Don't over-dry clothes. This causes shrinkage, generates static electricity, and shortens fabric life. If your dryer has a setting for auto-dry, use it instead of a timer to avoid wasting energy.
* Always clean the lint filter on the clothes dryer after each use. A clogged filter will reduce dryer performance.
For more information on energy savings and to purchase AHAM's historical Energy Efficiency and Consumption Trends, log on to http://www.aham.org/.
Courtesy of ARAcontent

Emergency Shut offs-What every family should know

A basic safety plan can protect your home and family and is simple to set up. What is probably most important is to ensure that each and every member of your family is also familiar with the plan and are trained on how to operate the controls.
Your plan should include such things as locating and tagging emergency shut off’s, maintaining a list of emergency phone numbers, a fire evacuation plan and a schedule for maintaining smoke detectors and Carbon Monoxide monitors.

• Safety first
  If you are unsure about any of the following procedures, ask an expert for help and advice. Do not touch any electrical panel when water is present around the panel or the basement is flooded.
  
• Emergency Phone Numbers
  Maintain a list of emergency phone numbers and post it in a convenient location.
  Police, Fire, Ambulance, Doctors, Utility companies, Plumber, Electrician, etc. Don’t forget your own work numbers and cell numbers.
  
• Evacuation Plan
  Prepare an emergency evacuation plan in case of fire, CO alarm etc. Make sure children know what to do and have a planned meeting place outside the home. Practice! Seek advice from the local fire department for additional information.
  
• Main electrical disconnect
  In newer homes this will usually be located on the main electric distribution panel in the garage or basement. The main breaker usually is marked 100, 125 or 200 amp and turns off all power to the home. It is operated just like a light switch.
  In older homes there may be one main switch or fuse block which must be pulled out to turn off power. The fuse block should be held by the handle and pulled sharply outwards. Once the fuse block is pulled do not touch anything inside the panel.
  
• Main water valve
  If you have a city water supply, the valve will be located in the basement near the water meter. This valve will be on the incoming pipe just before the meter. Typically there are two types. One with a straight handle requires only a quarter turn to shut off. The other with a round handle requires turning the handle clockwise to close. This valve should be operated occasionally as part as routine maintenance. If it is old, worn or rusty it may require replacement.
  If you home is supplied from a well then the shut off valve will be located on the outlet side of the pressure tank. Electrical power to the pump should also be shut off to stop pump operation.
• Natural gas Main
  The gas meter outside your home has a built in valve on the piping. This valve requires a wrench to operate. Turning the valve one quarter turn stops gas flow to the home. When the handle is in line with the pipe the valve is open.
  
• Appliance gas Valves
  Each gas appliance in the home will also have its own valve shutting down gas flow to each appliance. Locate these valves and tag them. They also close with a quarter turn.
  
• Furnace switch
  Typically power is fed to the furnace controls through a light switch located on or close to the furnace. Locate and tag this switch. Turning this switch off turns off the power to the heating system components.
  
• A/C disconnect
  This 240 volt switch is located next to the condenser portion of the A/C on the outside of the home. Turning off this switch shuts off power to the A/C.
  
• Smoke Detectors and CO Monitors.
  Test detectors monthly. Set a schedule for replacing batteries if they are required. Make sure children know what the alarms sound like and know what to do if they go off.
  
• Fire Extinguishers
  Install fire extinguishers where they can be easily accessed. Important areas would be kitchen, garage and basement. Check the pressure regularly and make sure everyone knows how to use them.
  
  
  Review your plan and revise it periodically as required. Make sure your children understand the procedure and who to call in case of emergency.
  For more detailed information, contact your local Police, Fire or Utilities Company.
  
  

Is your Home making you ill?

Clean air is essential to good health and this is especially true when it comes to indoor air.
It is estimated that North Americans spend close to 90% of our time indoors. With the advent of energy conservation and the trend towards tighter, draught free homes, the concentration of indoor air pollution can far exceed outdoor levels.
Some simple steps can control the quality of your indoor air.

Mould
Since moisture promotes mould growth, dampness is one of the most common causes of poor indoor air in homes. Minimize moisture by:
· Measure indoor humidity levels (use a hygrometer available from hardware stores) and maintain levels of around 50% in Summer and 30% in Winter. If necessary use a dehumidifier.
· Make sure that clothes dryers are properly connected and vented outside.
· Repair basement, roof and pipe leaks as soon as you notice them. Clean up after any water damage and dry the area within 48 hours.
· Discard clutter and excess stored materials. Mould can grow on fabrics, paper, wood, carpets etc whenever moisture is present.
· Always use kitchen and bathroom fans to remove moist air at the source. Run bathroom fans for at least 20 minutes after you have finished showering. Check that fans vent outside and not into the attic.
· Open windows when weather permits to provide circulation. Remember though that damp outside air will not dry the air inside.
· Don’t overwater plants and watch for mold growth in containers.
· Vacuum regularly. Central vacuum systems that vent to the outside or vacuums with HEPA filters are preferable.

Chemicals
The most effective way to remove chemical contaminants is to eliminate them at the source. Those that you bring into the house are easier to remove than those that originate from the materials used to build the house.
· Do not smoke or allow visitors to smoke indoors.
· Do not burn candles, liquid fuel or incense. Soot, carbon monoxide, volatile organic compounds and other hydrocarbons are byproducts of combustion.
· Use non chemical pest control methods such as baits, traps or fly swatters instead of pesticides.
· Do not allow any fungicide or biocide to be applied in the ducting system of your house.
· Avoid plug in or aerosol deodorizers or air fresheners. Instead deal with the causes of odours.
· Use unscented biodegradable detergents.
· Avoid the use of bleach and other strong household detergents and cleansers. Replace with greener alternatives.
· Avoid perfumed fabric softeners which leave residual chemical odours.

Building Materials
When possible select low emission materials, paints, sealants and carpets.
· Minimize the use of furniture made of particle board, MDF or plywood, which are potential sources of formaldehyde.
· Run ventilation fans (usually the bathroom fan) for a couple of hours every day to dilute indoor air with fresh air from outside.

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