Time of use electrical rates - Programmable thermostat keeps things cool

Hydro rates have increased again. Your Hydro supplier will be raising the prices that  you are billed for electricity usage.

Smart Meters have been installed throughout most of Ontario and what this means to you is that you are charged different rates for electrical usage depending on the time of day. Prices indicated are current for November 2016. Times are spit as follows:

Winter ( November to April)

Off Peak 7 PM to 7 AM      18 cents/kwh

Mid Peak 11 AM to 5 PM   13.2 cents/kwh

On Peak 7 AM to 11 AM     8.7 cents/ kwh
               5 PM to 7 PM

Summer ( May to October)

Off Peak  7 pm to 7 AM

Mid peak  7 AM to 11 AM   and  5 PM to 7 PM

On Peak  11 am to 5 PM


When it comes to energy usage, heating and cooling make up a high percentage of your energy bill. Since you will be charged almost twice as much for energy use during On Peak periods as Off peak, it is now even more important that you adjust your thermostat (and your energy cost $) when you are away from home.

A programmable thermostat can be an energy saver, because it allows homeowners to adjust the heating and cooling system to operate to a pre-set chedule. The schedule can be set to run the HVAC equipment at more energy-efficient rates during times when residents are away at work or school or when the home is not occupied during vacation periods.

In the past, it was thought that maintaining a constant temperature was better than adjusting a thermostat up and down. However it has been proven that turning a thermostat down or up a degree or more will always save energy (and money). The closer the inside air temperature is to the outside air temperature, the less heat or air conditioning will be lost via heat transference ( the principle that heat moves from hot to cold ). Thus, by heating or cooling the air less, less energy (and money) is required.

How much money can be saved? Well that depends on the style, size and type of construction of the home but typically as much as $ 200 savings per year can be realized in a single family home. On average a homeowner will save three percent on their energy bill for every degree a thermostat is set back. These figures were based on flat rate pricing so could be much higher with time of of use billing.

A variety of Thermostat models and features are available including 7 day, 5 + 2 day or 5-1-1 day schedules. Seven day models provide the most flexibility if daily schedules change often. Most models allow three or four possible temperature periods per day such as Wake/Day/Evening/Sleep.

Most programmable thermostats use low voltage wiring and can be easily installed using wires connected to the old thermostat for operation. While temperatures should be set for individual comfort, here are suggested guidelines.

In winter, a thermostat setting of 68 degF while family members are awake and lower when they are asleep or away from home will keep energy costs down.
In summer, setting the thermostat at 78 degF when a home is unoccupied, and slightly cooler when family members are present will also result in energy savings.

During vacation periods, the “hold” setting can be used to set the thermostat at a constant, energy efficient temperature. It can be set to a high temperature (85 degreesF or slightly higher) rather than completely turning the AC off in the warmer months. In cold weather, it can be set to remain at a lower temperature (55 degreesF) so water pipes don’t freeze.

Save energy with ceiling fans

Flip the switch on ceiling fans.

Ceiling fans are very popular these days, with people ‘warming up’ to their many benefits. They increase comfort by reducing drafts in winter and creating a breeze in the warm temps, lower furnace and air conditioner usage, and can really make a statement in your décor. But ceiling fans are only beneficial all year long if you if you have them blowing the right way.

More commonly linked with warm weather, many people still tend to stop using their fans when cooler weather hits. But more and more people are realizing their benefit in winter and are actually purchasing them more for use in fall, winter and spring rather than in the summer.

The trick is to have the fan directing air down when it’s warm out and up when it’s cool. The downdraft in hot weather will create a cooling breeze. Reversing the flow in cool months will distribute the air – and warmth that tends to collect at the ceiling – to all levels of a room, making chilly drafts less likely.

So before it gets too cold outside, flip the switch on your ceiling fans and start enjoying their cool weather benefit.

Fan Tips
• Generally speaking, only use the lowest speed in winter to avoid creating a breeze that can feel cool and defeat the purpose of flipping the switch, unless…
• If your ceiling fan is installed in a room with a high ceiling, in addition to flipping the switch in winter, you should use the fan at medium or high speed - to help circulate that larger volume of warm air trapped at the ceiling.
• If you have a ceiling fan directly over a dining table or desk, keep it in ‘winter mode’ all year long to prevent cooling off the food. Instead, use a high speed in summer to create a less direct, but still cooling breeze.

How do I get the ventilation that I need in my house

If your house is stuffy, odours linger, or humidity is high in fall and winter, it is likely that your house does not have adequate fresh air. If you or your children have respiratory conditions, such as asthma, bronchitis or chronic colds, getting the proper amount of fresh air is even more important.

The design, construction and maintenance of a home determine the amount of exchange between indoor and outdoor air. Since most home pollutants come primarily from indoor sources then bringing in outdoor air can help lower the concentration of pollutants in the home.

Today’s modern homes are relatively air tight and are constructed to resist air entry through use of air barriers, vapour barriers and sheet materials such as plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) and drywall. All this was done in the name of energy efficiency but little thought was given to the effect on air quality. Homes have in fact become so air tight that you must induce air change by the use of mechanical ventilation in order to maintain good indoor air quality.
Older homes did not have this problem. They were often drafty and very dry in winter due to high air change rates. Sealing up these homes is usually the major issue in order to reduce heating requirements.

Ventilation:
There are a number of ventilation mechanisms that occur in any home:

1. Air infiltration: This is the air that naturally comes into the house through leaks in doors, windows, openings and gaps.

2. Mechanical ventilation: Air pulled into the house by using ventilation fans such as kitchen fans, bathroom fans and clothes dryers.

3. Stack effect: We know that hot air rises. When cold air comes into the basement and is warmed up, it rises and moves through the house eventually leaving through the attic to the outside.

4. Distribution: Fresh air coming into the house needs to be moved around. This usually requires fans and ducting systems.

At certain times of the year, when temperatures are mild and there is a light breeze then opening windows can provide good ventilation. In older homes open windows were the standard ventilation even for bathrooms, but these should be upgraded when remodelling to provide a fan that vents to the exterior. In newer homes or remodelled older homes, using mechanical ventilation or a heat recovery ventilator can be more effective particularly during cold winter months or when air conditioning is in use.

Bathroom fans provide basic ventilation. The fan removes stale air from the house and natural infiltration through the various leaks allows outdoor air to enter. The furnace fan and ducting system, if present, mixes this fresh air with house air and distributes it around the house. In many new houses a ” ventilation switch” is installed next to the thermostat which operates the bathroom fan. In some cases this is also electrically connected to the furnace fan.

Ventilation fans should be run for a few hours a day. These fans should be relatively low flow (about 50 cu ft/minute) and as quiet as possible so that they are not annoying. Sound levels less than 1.5 sones are best.

Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV) are becoming increasingly common particularly in new homes. They provide good ventilation without too much additional energy cost. The HRV vents out stale air and brings in the same amount of fresh air. This is known as a balanced system and should be calibrated yearly. The units are designed so that some of the heat in the outgoing air is used to warm up the incoming fresh air. Basic systems are connected into the existing furnace ductwork. Efficiencies of 60 to 80% are quoted but I doubt that this level is achieved in normal operation. (Just my opinion!!) The furnace fan also needs to run to distribute the fresh air around the house.

Separately ducted HRV’s are also available where the HRV fan motor distributes the fresh air and collects the stale air through its own ducting system. Although more expensive to install, this system does not need to run the furnace fan and is therefore more energy efficient in the long term.
HRV’s should be used anytime the house is normally closed up. They should be run continuously at low speed and switched to high for parties or other times when you want more ventilation.

Summary:
Improving ventilation may lower the concentration of pollutants in your home. Most homes will benefit from the fresh air supplied by mechanical ventilation. Opening windows and doors will increase the natural ventilation and exhaust fans will remove moisture and draw in fresh air by infiltration. For tightly sealed houses a HRV system may be necessary.

Safety Note: Be aware that over sizing kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans is not advisable. High exhaust rates can cause lower pressures within the home. This in turn can cause dangerous Carbon Monoxide to be drawn into the home from gas fired appliances such as furnaces or hot water heaters or from wood burning stoves etc. If in doubt, check with a qualified Heating/Ventilation expert.

Do I need to be concerned about lead in my home?

From the early 19th century through to the 1940’s almost all household paints contained lead pigments. Lead content, when the paint is dry could be as high as 65%. Many manufacturers began to phase out their use of lead in the 1950’s but lead based additives were not banned until the late 70’s.

What this means is that a house built before 1978 may or may not contain lead paint but a house built before 1950 almost certainly does.

In its cured form paint containing lead does not pose a serious problem. However, dust from sanding or fumes from a torch used to remove paint can result in dangerous levels of lead being absorbed into the bloodstream. Lead poisoning can affect all ages, but children are at most risk.

In general, lead based paints were used on exterior surfaces and interior trim or glossy wall surfaces such as kitchens and bathrooms. The only way to know for sure is to test. Inexpensive test kits are available from hardware stores or samples can be sent to a laboratory for testing. Be sure to cut through layers of paint to get to the underlying surfaces when taking samples.

It is important to remember that lead dust is the problem and good maintenance is the key to eliminating or controlling the spread of the dust. Cracking, peeling paint surfaces or friction surfaces such as sticking windows or doors can grind the paint into dust during daily use. Because it’s heavy, lead dust doesn’t travel very far. Most of the dust produced by a troublesome double hung window will likely settle on the sill or nearby on the floor. Using soapy water and a wet cloth can quickly and effectively wipe this away. Lead dust particles are very small, so it is important to be aware that they can pass through the filter of a conventional vacuum cleaner. This means you could be distributing the dust throughout the home. To avoid contaminating an entire room, a vacuum with a HEPA filter should be used.

Remodelling an area containing lead paint probably poses the greatest health risk as it is almost impossible not to generate dust during deconstruction. Whether you are using a contractor, or doing it yourself, be sure to plan the steps that are required to contain the dust. Areas should be sealed with 6 mil polyethylene, heat registers and returns should be sealed. All joints should be taped. In some cases surfaces can be wet down. Dust masks are not suitable; a half face respirator with HEPA filter is needed. Many US States now require contractors to be certified in dealing with renovations involving lead paint. Keep in mind that working on the exterior of the home still requires lead dust containment and suitable safety equipment such as coveralls, masks and HEPA vacuums.

In general, a clean well maintained home containing lead paint should not present a health risk providing safety guidelines are followed.
For additional information visit
Health Canada website: http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/iyh-vsv/prod/paint-peinture-eng.php
EPA website: http://www.epa.gov/lead/

Air Duct Cleaning- The difference between Hype and Health

Air duct cleaning is a big business. Homeowners are often inundated with solicitations from air duct cleaning services warning about the dangers of unhealthy Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). Asserting that regular furnace air duct cleaning will provide multiple benefits, including:

• Elimination or reduction of household allergens; such as mold, pollen, animal hair, and other contaminants.
• Improved IAQ.
• Elimination of house dust settling on furnishings.
• HVAC system energy improvement, resulting in lower fuel costs.
• Enhanced air flow for better heating and cooling.

According to research conducted by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) during the 1990s claims of dramatic improvements by cleaning ducts were exaggerated. Researchers found there was almost no measureable difference between the amount of airborne particles in ducts after cleaning.

Dust is always present in a home. Most dust gets tracked in or is created inside by human skin and hair shedding, pet debris and fibres from various sources such as carpet or clothing. Regardless of whether the ducts have been cleaned, there will always be a “cloud” of these various particlesin the home. A good quality air filter is therefor recommended to help keep air blown through the furnace fan and ductwork clean. Change air filters regularly according to manufacturers recommendations.

Valid Reasons for Air Duct Cleaning

Duct cleaning is recommended under some conditions:

• Newly constructed or renovated homes
• Large air ducts with a noticably slow air flow.
• When moisture intrusion in the air ducts has resulted in mold growth
• When ducting has been infested by rodents, insects or other vermin
• When a blockage or partial blockage has norticeably reduced air flow.

What to Look for in a Service Provider

There are different types of air ducts requiring different cleaning procedures as well as different cleaning products. An air duct cleaning service that works closely with an HVAC contractor will be knowledgable about the whole HVAC system.
A good duct cleaning contractor will be certified and belong to a trade association such as the National Air Duct Cleaning Association. (NADCA) They should provide thorough cleaning for all parts of the system, including cooling coils, drain pan, and the fan or blower compartment as well as fan or blower blades. Ask for references from satisfied customers.

They should perform a viual inspection after completion of the work.
Do not allow any company to apply disinfectant or biocide to the HVAC system by fogging or spray. No such products have been registered or approved under Canada’s Pest Control Products Act for duct cleaning purposes. Current research indicates that these products can be health risks.

Tarion New Home Warranty - Do I need an inspection

Guelph, Ontario – Aug12,2010 –- In order to be protected under the Tarion New Home Warranty Programme, the responsibility falls on the buyer to report any problems or defects in their brand new home. Since most buyers have no expertise in home construction, electrical, plumbing, HVAC etc. should they seek professional help from a qualified Home Inspector in order to protect their investment?

Every new home in Ontario is protected by a mandatory Warranty that is provided by the Builder and guaranteed by the Tarion Home Warranty Programme. The Warranty covers deposit insurance, protection against defects in work and materials, unauthorized substitutions, delayed closings or delayed occupancy. The most common claims relate to defects in work and materials, which require homeowners to submit a list of deficiencies at 30 day and one-year deadlines.

While Builders provide a pre-delivery inspection (PDI) for buyers just before closing, John Arnott of Welcome Home Inspection Services in Guelph, Ontario notes that these are more related to cosmetic issues such as whether the chosen flooring, cabinets, countertops, etc. are installed. Although the PDI serves a purpose it really does not cover all the systems of the house says Arnott who is a Registered Home Inspector in the Province of Ontario.

While a typical PDI is basically a walk through inspection and generally takes about one hour, his company provides an independent 30 day and one-year inspection that takes about three hours and is much more detailed, including such items as foundation, roofing, grading, structure, insulation, plumbing, heating and ventilation.

Arnott says that while most people think that buying a new house will mean everything will be perfect, it’s not uncommon to find missing insulation in the attic, poor ventilation systems or even structural issues. An example of this may be something as simple as a bathroom fan venting into the attic. This can cause serious damage when moist air meets the cold attic. If caught quickly little damage will result but a year down the road, mould, mildew and even rot may be visible on the attic sheathing and rafters.

Although buyers may believe that the Builder and the City Inspectors will have thoroughly inspected everything, this is rarely the case says Arnott. He explains that the problem generally stems from the fact that there are many tradesmen following each other during construction, each with a very tight schedule. On a large site with multiple trades and many house designs in different stages of construction it’s not unusual for some things to get moved or damaged or just plain forgotten.

Arnott’s company, Welcome Home Inspection Services provides an Inspection that is designed to ensure that the home owner is fully aware of any deficiencies before they develop into bigger problems down the road. Our goal is to educate the home owner so that they can be fully covered by the warranty says Arnott. We also make sure the homeowner is aware of their responsibilities in terms of when and how to file their forms because if filed incorrectly, claims can be rejected by Tarion.

The average home owner can not be expected to be familiar with the complex systems of a home, says Arnott. A professional Home Inspection by a Registered Home Inspector (RHI) is your best defence when it comes to protecting your investment and receiving the full benefit of the New Home Warranty program.

When choosing an inspector, those with RHI designation have extensive training and are required to conform to a strict Code of Ethics and the Standards of Practice as set out by the Ontario Association of Home Inspectors.

Welcome Home Inspection Services is a professional Home Inspection company providing pre-purchase, pre-listing and New Home Warranty inspections in Guelph, Kitchener, Waterloo, Milton, Cambridge and surrounding areas in Ontario

Phone number: 519-716-8371
Contact: John Arnott Bsc. Eng, Registered Home Inspector
www.welcomehomeinspections.ca

10 Easy Ways to Save Energy in Your Home

Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves.
Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons:
• It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient.
• It increases indoor comfort levels.
• It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming.
• It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies.
1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house.
As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems:
• Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy.
• Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters.
• Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70°F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs.
• Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs.
• Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces.
• At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room.
2. Install a tankless water heater.Demand water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Demand water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. Therefore, they avoid the standby heat losses required by traditional storage water heaters.
3. Replace incandescent lights.
The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFL), can reduce energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs:
• CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs.
• LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy.
• LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury.
4. Seal and insulate your home.Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy efficient -– and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills.
The following are some common places where leakage may occur:
• electrical outlets;
• mail slots;
• around pipes and wires;
• wall- or window-mounted air conditioners;
• attic hatches;
• fireplace dampers;
• weatherstripping around doors;
• baseboards;
• window frames; and
• switch plates.
Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as:
• Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas.
• Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry.
• Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foam board insulation the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner.
5. Install efficient shower heads and toilets.
The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes:
• low-flow shower heads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up;
• low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of two gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank;
• vacuum-assist toilets. These types of toilets have a vacuum chamber which uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum toilets are relatively quiet; and
• dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years, and are now gaining in popularity in the Canada. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%.
6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly.
Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances:
• Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool.
• Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption.
• Use efficient “Energy Star”-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the DOE and the Energy Star Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers and more. If just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees.
• Chargers, such as those for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged.
• Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers.
7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting.Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches:
• skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks;
• lightshelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount;
• clerestory windows. Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and
• light tubes. Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly.
8. Insulate windows and doors.
About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors:
• Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option.
• Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, weatherstrip around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place.
• Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window.
• If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced.
9. Cook smart.An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking:
• Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens.
• Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens.
• Pans should be placed on the correctly-sized heating element or flame.
• Lids make food heat more quickly than pans that do not have lids.
• Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically.
• When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster.
10. Change the way you wash your clothes.• Do not use the “half load” setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the “half load” setting saves less than half of the water and energy.
• Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not that dirty. Water that is 140 degrees uses far more energy than 103 degrees for a "warm" setting, but 140 degrees isn’t that much better for washing purposes.
• Clean the lint trap before you use the dryer, every time. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry.
• If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks.
• Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer.
Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. Also don’t forget that there are numerous Government initiatives and programs offering rebates and tax incentives for major upgrades to insulation, heating and cooling.

Condensation in Double-Paned Windows

Condensation is the accumulation of liquid water on relatively cold surfaces.

Almost all air contains water vapor, As warm air cools, its molecules get closer together and squeeze the tiny vapor droplets closer together. A critical temperature, known as dew point, exists where these water droplets will be forced so close together that they merge into visible liquid in a process called condensation.

Household air is humidified from human and animal exhalation, plant transpiration, and fixtures such as showers and dryers. This humidity can rise significantly higher than outside air. When this humid air meets a cold indoor surfaces condensation can occur. This often happens on single-pane windows because they lack the necessary thermal insulation available to better windows. Double-pane windows have a layer of gas (usually argon or air) trapped between two panes of glass and should be insulated enough to prevent the accumulation of condensation. If this type of window appears misty or foggy, it means that its seal has failed and the window needs to be replaced.

Silica Desiccant
Silica pellets are often contained inside the aluminum perimeter strip of a window to dehumidify incoming household air that was not stopped by the window’s seal. If not for this substance, incoming air could condense on the glass.

Silica gel has an immense surface area, approximately 800 m²/g, which allows it to absorb water vapor for years. Eventually, the silica pellets will become saturated and will no longer be able to prevent condensation from forming. A double-paned window that appears foggy has failed and needs to be repaired or replaced.

Why Double-Paned Windows Fail - Solar (Thermal) Pumping
Although double-paned windows appear to be stable, they actually experience a daily cycle of expansion and contraction caused by “thermal pumping.” Sunlight heats the airspace between the panes and causes the gas there to heat up and pressurize. Expanding gas cannot leave the chamber between the panes and causes the glass to bulge outward during the day and contract at night to accommodate the changing pressures. Over time, the constant pressure fluctuations caused by thermal pumping will stress the seal and challenge its ability to prevent the flow of gas in and out of the window chamber.

Can Failed Windows be Repaired?There are companies that claim to be able to repair misty windows through a process known as “defogging.”

This repair method proceeds in the following order:
1. A hole is drilled into the window, usually from the outside, and a cleaning solution is sprayed into the air chamber.
2. The solution and any other moisture are sucked out through a vacuum.
3. A defogger device is permanently inserted into the hole that will allow the release of moisture during thermal pumping.
There is currently a debate as to whether this process is a suitable repair for windows that have failed or if it merely removes the symptom of this failure. Condensation appears between double-paned windows when the seal is compromised and removal of this water will not fix the seal itself. A window “repaired” in this manner, although absent of condensation, might not provide any additional insulation. This method is still fairly new and opinions about its effectiveness range widely. Regardless, “defogging” certainly allows for cosmetic improvement, which is of some value to homeowners. It also removes any potential damage caused by condensation in the form of mold or rot.

Window condensation will inevitably lead to irreversible physical window damage. This damage can appear in the following two ways:

Riverbedding – Condensed vapor between the glass panes will form droplets that run down the length of the window. Water that descends in this fashion has the tendency to follow narrow paths and carve grooves into the glass surface. These grooves are formed in a process similar to canyon formation.

Silica Haze – Once the silica gel has been saturated, it will be eroded by passing air currents and accumulate as white “snowflakes” on the window surface. It is believed that if this damage is present, the window must be replaced.


In summary, condensation in double-paned windows indicates that the window has failed and needs to be replaced. Condensation, while it can damage windows, is itself a symptom of a lack of integrity of the window’s seal. A failing seal will allow air to transfer in and out of the window even if it is firmly closed

Bathroom Ventilation Fans

Many times during a home inspection we find small defects which left unchecked have resulted in much more serious problems. Probably the most common of these is poor installation of bathroom ventilation systems. Inspecting and correcting these systems now can avoid major expense in the future.

Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home's exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will probably not be opened during the winter in cold climates.

Ducts which leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation or other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health or decay problems from mold, or to damage materials such as wood sheathing and drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation

The fan housing should be checked for proper installation and dust buildup that can impede airflow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge.

.The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation:
• moisture stains on walls or ceilings.
• corrosion of metal.
• visible mold on walls or ceilings.
• peeling paint or wallpaper.
• frost on windows.
• high levels of humidity.

The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are:
• mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot.
• beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed.
• beneath attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just beneath it.
• At the soffit vents.
Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom but you have to look in the attic or on the roof to determine how the duct has been installed. Sometimes poorly-installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections.
Correct installation:

Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air and moisture is properly exhausted.

Ventilation ducts must:
• terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the attic.
• contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry.
• be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder.
• be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts will encourage condensation within the duct.
• protrude at least several inches from the roof.
• be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements.
• be installed to manufacturer's recommendations.

Safety Note: When checking ventilation ducts in the attic they will probably be visible from the hatch opening. If you do have to enter you must walk on the ceiling joists only. Stepping between the joists will damage the ceiling below and could result in a fall to the bedroom below. The drywall ceiling will not support your weight. If you have any doubts hire a qualified professional to inspect the ventilation for you.

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Offgassing in Your Home

We Canadians are indoors more than a lot of people because of our climate’s relatively low temperatures, so the air we breathe in our homes and places of business is a particularly important factor in our overall health.

Much has been said about the impact of ‘offgassing’ - the release of VOC’s (volatile organic compounds) through evaporation, emitted from many building materials and items in our homes - and its contribution to poor air quality in the home. Are you impacted by them?

Materials such as painted and sprayed finishes, insulation, flooring, cabinets, and countertops are popular contributors. Furniture made from particleboard or plywood is included, as is synthetic carpet. Because this offgassing evaporation process can continue for years after purchase, you are subjected to these chemicals long after that ‘new carpet’ smell goes away.

Thankfully, identifying the problem has led to many new solutions to dealing with the offending ‘offgassing’ materials and items, and options abound. So whether you are planning to redecorate or renovate, be sure you consider these tips to reduce or eliminate offgassing in your home;

Wood – use solid, untreated wood whenever possible. It costs more, but has no offgassing and adds value to your home.
Paint – choose low or no-VOC brands, available in a full range of colours and purposes.
Flooring – new or reused hardwood is a good choice, as are ceramic tile, stone, linoleum, cork and bamboo. Finish with a low or no-VOC stain and sealer.
Carpet – area rugs are preferable. Choose ones made of untreated, natural fibers.
Countertops - natural stone such as granite and marble or ceramic tile.
Furniture – covering should be natural fibers. Plus ask about the level of VOC’s in the stuffing and backing used.
If replacing offending items isn’t in the cards at the moment, you can drastically reduce offgassing from anything paintable by coating with a low-VOC sealer.

Maintaining Your Deck

Summer is upon us and it's time for us all to "hit the deck". The wonderful warm weather brings us all outside to throw some steaks on the grill or to gather for social functions with friends and family. It also might be a good time to take a look at your wood deck and perform a little maintenance

Just like any other part of your home, decks need proper maintenance. Most decks are constructed of pressure treated wood which is made to withstand the elements to some extent. Even so, the ultraviolet light of the sun, rain, snow, tree sap, bird droppings and other pollutants can still take a toll on your deck.

.In order to keep your deck looking good and weather resistant you’ll need to know how to properly care of it. Sealing the wood on your deck is highly recommended to extend it’s lifespan. When water enters the wood and then dries out it can cause the wood to expand and contract which leads to splitting and cracking. Sealing your deck can prevent this from happening.
A simple test can show when sealing is needed. Pour some water on the wood surface. If the moisture beads up it is not time to reseal the wood. However, if the area becomes a large dark mark on the surface it is time to head to the hardware store. Before you can apply a wood sealer and protectant you’ll need to clean it thoroughly. Clear off loose debris by using a leaf blower and don’t forget to clean in between the boards. Cleaning products are available from your local hardware store. Read and follow the manufacturer’s directions of the cleaner that you purchase. If you use a pressure cleaner, set it to low pressure. Higher pressures can damage the wood surface. Rinse thoroughly.
After cleaning, allow a couple of days to let the wood dry out before sealing. The best time to seal is in early spring when temperatures are consistent and not too hot or too cold.
Various types of sealers and stains are available. Oil based, penetrating stains usually provide the best protection. Solid Stains and Paints can provide a pleasing look to the deck but do not penetrate far into the wood and can crack quickly due to expansion and contraction. No matter which product you use, decks will require treatment every two to three years to keep them looking their best.
While you’re cleaning and sealing your deck also check its safety. Check that railings, steps and posts are secure and repair as necessary.
Once you are finished, relax and enjoy the summer on your sparkling new deck.

Home Renovation Tax Credits

The Federal Government revealed the Home Renovation Tax Credit in its budget on Jan. 27, 2009. If you are thinking that maybe you might be able to manage a couple of small jobs, now may be the time. After all, if you keep the renovation budget to $10,000, you'll get $1,350 back — a saving of 13.5 per cent.

What is covered?

The tax credit kicks in on expenditures over $1,000, and you won't get any tax relief for what you spend over $10,000. So your tax savings on a $20,000 job will still be $1,350 — or a saving of 6.75 per cent.

The variety of expenditures that qualify for the tax credit is wide. Among them:
• Renovating your kitchen, bathroom or basement.
• Painting your house.
• Installing new carpeting or flooring.
• Replacing your heating/air conditioning system.
• Upgrading the insulation in your home, resurfacing your driveway or replacing you lawn with new sod.
Just about any job that improves your home or cottage — or any combination of jobs that improves either or both — qualifies for the credit.

Buying furniture, a big-screen TV, cleaning your carpets, buying tools or performing regular maintenance on your home won't get you the tax credit.

The Home Renovation Tax Credit can be coupled with other government programs that put money back into your pocket when you renovate your home. For instance, making your home more energy-efficient can qualify you for grants of up to $5,000 under the ecoENERGY Retrofit Program. You will still be able to claim the Home Renovation Tax Credit so essentially you can "double dip"
The same applies for eligible expenditures that are claimed under the Medical Expense Tax Credit.

While doing the work yourself will give you the most bang for your buck, jobs that you pay a contractor to do also qualify. Expenses such as labour, building permits, equipment rentals, professional services and incidentals are also eligible.
Municipalities regulate building permits, so you should check with your local officials before you begin your job. If your renovation involves structural changes to your home, pumbing or electrical work, you will most likely need a permit.

One of the major goals of the program, which is expected to cost the government $3 billion, is to stimulate local economies. Most of the material you buy to fix up your home is likely made in Canada and sold at your local hardware store (although it's as likely to be a U.S.-owned big-box store as a Canadian-owned big-box outlet).

One tax credit per family Unlike the Home Buyers' Plan, where each spouse can withdraw up to $25,000 from their RRSP to put toward a down payment on a first house, the Home Renovation Tax Credit is limited to one credit per family. While you can make claims for work done at more than one residence you own, the maximum any family can get back is $1,350. But a family can share the credit.
You'll be able to claim the credit on your return for the 2009 tax year. All material has to be purchased and work has to be finished no later than Feb. 1, 2010.

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Dryer vents

Question:

What is the proper way to vent a clothes dryer?

Answer:

Here are some facts from the United States Fire Administration.

Dryer exhaust should vent directly outside the home. In some new homes, washers and dryers are placed in non traditional areas of the house, including upstairs bedrooms, hallways and closets. These new sites generally require longer dryer vents in order to reach an ouside wall and may contain sharp turns and bends that snake through the home.

Remember:

Dryer vents should not be longer than the equivalent of 25 feet ( five feet is added to the actual vent length for each 90 degree bend in the vent).

When lint has to pass through an exhaust that is under a floor or through walls and is more than 6 feet long, it is almost impossible for all the lint to be propelled out of the vent.

Lint can also accumulate in pockets along the vent where it is harder to reach and clean.

As a result, it is crucial for homeowners to regularly inspect and clean out the dryer vent. In fact, all manufacturers now state in their manuals not to use plastic flexible dryer ducts between the vent and the clothes dryer. However, many existing homes as well as some new construction, continue to use plastic flexible ducts. The plastic itself can provide additional fuel for a fire. Even flexible foil vents are not the best choice for venting clothes dryers. Flexible vents can sag, allowing lint to build up and catch fire if it comes in contact with a sufficient amount of heat. If a fire starts beneath the dryer when the motor overheats, then the drafts from the dryer can pull that fire up into the duct and venting, allowing a house fire to develop.

To avoid problems, make sure you disconnect, clean and inspect the dryer and venting at least once a year, or hire a professional company to clean the dryer components.


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Urea Formaldehyde Insulation- New Controversy

Urea formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) is again in the news. An Ontario Company has been ordered by the Federal Government to stop selling a formaldehyde based insulation that has already been installed in about 700 homes.

Justice Minister Rob Nicholson announced a “cease and desist “order against the company RetroFoam. Canada Border Services has also been alerted to stop further importation of the product.

The Company claims that its formulation is safe and is not the same as the Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation (UFFI) banned in 1980 due to potential health concerns related to elevated levels of formaldehyde following installation.

UFFI was extensively used in Canada between 1975 and 1978 and it is estimated that over 100,000 homes were insulated with UFFI during that time. Its use was eventually banned in December 1980.
The fear of health problems caused the federal government to set guidelines for reducing formaldehyde levels in houses. The initial threshold level set for formaldehyde gas was 1.0 part per million (ppm). As testing methods improved the level was reduced to 0.1 ppm. Interestingly subsequent testing found that formaldehyde gas levels in houses insulated with UFFI were well below the 0.1 ppm level and it became apparent that levels of formaldehyde decrease rapidly after the foam has been installed, typically returning to ambient house levels within several days.


Statistics showed in fact that of the homes tested, on average formaldehyde levels were slightly below that of homes of similar age without UFFI. The problems with UFFI were not substantiated and extensive testing has shown that health concerns appear to have been overstated. In my opinion home owners with the UFFI insulation that was installed in the 70’s need not be concerned and should continue to enjoy their homes.

It should be noted that formaldehyde is found in other building materials such as particle board, plywood, carpets and many other common items. If you have a concern about your indoor air quality, consult with a qualified Environmental Consultant or Air Quality Specialist.

Preventing Ice dams

The cold weather is upon us and brings with it some home problems that are specific to Northern cold climates. Ice dams can be seen in both old and new homes and if left unchecked can lead to severe structural damage.

What is an Ice Dam?
Generally deeper snow and colder temperatures increase the formation of ice dams.
An ice dam is an accumulation of ice that builds up along the edge of a roof. The eavestrough may be overflowing with ice and there may be icicles hanging from the edge.


What causes an ice dam?
Snow build up effectively acts as an insulator on the roof. Heat from the attic warms the underside of the snow and melts the bottom layer. This water then runs under the snow cover and down the roof until it hits a cold surface like the overhang, where it refreezes.
As the cold spell continues the ice becomes thicker.

Why is this a problem?
The ice build up acts as a dam for the water running off beneath the snow. This can cause a back up and the water has to run somewhere. In severe cases that means under the roof shingles soaking the roof sheathing, insulation, wood framing and possibly your interior ceiling. Uncorrected the water can cause serious structural damage.

Prevention:
Ice dams can be prevented by eliminating heat build up in the attic. The following steps combine to help keep the temperature inside the attic nearly the same as the outside temperature:

1. Seal openings that allow heated inside air to rise into the attic. The attic hatch is of particular importance. This should be insulated and weather-stripped. All penetrations of wiring, plumbing pipes and wood framing into the attic should be sealed with caulk or expandable foam insulation. The spaces around chimneys should be sealed with sheet metal and high temperature caulk.

2. Make sure that bathroom exhaust fans do not discharge directly to the attic. The exhaust duct should be insulated and the area between the frame of the fan and the ceiling sealed.

3. Improve insulation to slow heat transfer into the attic. Current recommendations are for approximately 12 inches of Fiberglass bat insulation (R38+) or equivalent blown in type.

4. Improve ventilation to cool the attic space and remove unwanted moisture. (Note: Make sure that you do not block soffit vents when adding insulation.) Passive type ventilation such as soffit vents, ridge vents and/or high level exhaust vents are best. Powered exhaust vents are not generally recommended as they can cause negative pressure in the attic drawing more warm air from the heated space.

Energy Saving Tips for the Home

(ARA) - Looking for ways to save money? According to The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM), a good place to start is in the kitchen. Replacing older, inefficient appliances with more modern appliances is a leading way for consumers to reap tremendous energy savings.
That's great advice considering the fact that the amount of energy consumed by home appliances has dropped sharply since 2000. Refrigerators, dishwashers and clothes washers combined account for a 43 percent decrease in energy consumption since 2000, and decreasing energy consumption in turn drops cost.
Replacing an 8- year-old refrigerator, dishwasher and clothes washer with new appliances of average efficiency will save consumers about $95 per year in energy bills. Replacing an 8- year-old clothes washer will save more than $60 in electricity costs and nearly 5,000 gallons of water per year.
Consumers can attain additional savings by purchasing Energy Star designated appliances. Here are some more energy savings tips:
* If you are replacing your refrigerator, do not use the old refrigerator as a second refrigerator. This will not yield energy savings. Properly recycle the appliance. To find recycling options in your area, call (800) YES-1-CAN.
* Allow hot foods to cool before placing them in the refrigerator; and always cover foods that may release moisture in the refrigerator.
* Limit opening the refrigerator and freezer doors. Label foods or use clear food storage bags to easily identify foods.
* Scrape, but do not pre-rinse dishes before putting them in the dishwasher. Dishwashers do a great job of cleaning soiled dishes.
* Take advantage of your dishwasher's "eco" option that reduces water use, or use a no-heat air dry feature.
* Use load size settings on your washing machine. If you are washing a small load of clothing, be sure to change the load setting; and use cold water settings whenever possible.
* Don't over-dry clothes. This causes shrinkage, generates static electricity, and shortens fabric life. If your dryer has a setting for auto-dry, use it instead of a timer to avoid wasting energy.
* Always clean the lint filter on the clothes dryer after each use. A clogged filter will reduce dryer performance.
For more information on energy savings and to purchase AHAM's historical Energy Efficiency and Consumption Trends, log on to http://www.aham.org/.
Courtesy of ARAcontent

Emergency Shut offs-What every family should know

A basic safety plan can protect your home and family and is simple to set up. What is probably most important is to ensure that each and every member of your family is also familiar with the plan and are trained on how to operate the controls.
Your plan should include such things as locating and tagging emergency shut off’s, maintaining a list of emergency phone numbers, a fire evacuation plan and a schedule for maintaining smoke detectors and Carbon Monoxide monitors.

• Safety first
  If you are unsure about any of the following procedures, ask an expert for help and advice. Do not touch any electrical panel when water is present around the panel or the basement is flooded.
  
• Emergency Phone Numbers
  Maintain a list of emergency phone numbers and post it in a convenient location.
  Police, Fire, Ambulance, Doctors, Utility companies, Plumber, Electrician, etc. Don’t forget your own work numbers and cell numbers.
  
• Evacuation Plan
  Prepare an emergency evacuation plan in case of fire, CO alarm etc. Make sure children know what to do and have a planned meeting place outside the home. Practice! Seek advice from the local fire department for additional information.
  
• Main electrical disconnect
  In newer homes this will usually be located on the main electric distribution panel in the garage or basement. The main breaker usually is marked 100, 125 or 200 amp and turns off all power to the home. It is operated just like a light switch.
  In older homes there may be one main switch or fuse block which must be pulled out to turn off power. The fuse block should be held by the handle and pulled sharply outwards. Once the fuse block is pulled do not touch anything inside the panel.
  
• Main water valve
  If you have a city water supply, the valve will be located in the basement near the water meter. This valve will be on the incoming pipe just before the meter. Typically there are two types. One with a straight handle requires only a quarter turn to shut off. The other with a round handle requires turning the handle clockwise to close. This valve should be operated occasionally as part as routine maintenance. If it is old, worn or rusty it may require replacement.
  If you home is supplied from a well then the shut off valve will be located on the outlet side of the pressure tank. Electrical power to the pump should also be shut off to stop pump operation.
• Natural gas Main
  The gas meter outside your home has a built in valve on the piping. This valve requires a wrench to operate. Turning the valve one quarter turn stops gas flow to the home. When the handle is in line with the pipe the valve is open.
  
• Appliance gas Valves
  Each gas appliance in the home will also have its own valve shutting down gas flow to each appliance. Locate these valves and tag them. They also close with a quarter turn.
  
• Furnace switch
  Typically power is fed to the furnace controls through a light switch located on or close to the furnace. Locate and tag this switch. Turning this switch off turns off the power to the heating system components.
  
• A/C disconnect
  This 240 volt switch is located next to the condenser portion of the A/C on the outside of the home. Turning off this switch shuts off power to the A/C.
  
• Smoke Detectors and CO Monitors.
  Test detectors monthly. Set a schedule for replacing batteries if they are required. Make sure children know what the alarms sound like and know what to do if they go off.
  
• Fire Extinguishers
  Install fire extinguishers where they can be easily accessed. Important areas would be kitchen, garage and basement. Check the pressure regularly and make sure everyone knows how to use them.
  
  
  Review your plan and revise it periodically as required. Make sure your children understand the procedure and who to call in case of emergency.
  For more detailed information, contact your local Police, Fire or Utilities Company.
  
  

Is your Home making you ill?

Clean air is essential to good health and this is especially true when it comes to indoor air.
It is estimated that North Americans spend close to 90% of our time indoors. With the advent of energy conservation and the trend towards tighter, draught free homes, the concentration of indoor air pollution can far exceed outdoor levels.
Some simple steps can control the quality of your indoor air.

Mould
Since moisture promotes mould growth, dampness is one of the most common causes of poor indoor air in homes. Minimize moisture by:
· Measure indoor humidity levels (use a hygrometer available from hardware stores) and maintain levels of around 50% in Summer and 30% in Winter. If necessary use a dehumidifier.
· Make sure that clothes dryers are properly connected and vented outside.
· Repair basement, roof and pipe leaks as soon as you notice them. Clean up after any water damage and dry the area within 48 hours.
· Discard clutter and excess stored materials. Mould can grow on fabrics, paper, wood, carpets etc whenever moisture is present.
· Always use kitchen and bathroom fans to remove moist air at the source. Run bathroom fans for at least 20 minutes after you have finished showering. Check that fans vent outside and not into the attic.
· Open windows when weather permits to provide circulation. Remember though that damp outside air will not dry the air inside.
· Don’t overwater plants and watch for mold growth in containers.
· Vacuum regularly. Central vacuum systems that vent to the outside or vacuums with HEPA filters are preferable.

Chemicals
The most effective way to remove chemical contaminants is to eliminate them at the source. Those that you bring into the house are easier to remove than those that originate from the materials used to build the house.
· Do not smoke or allow visitors to smoke indoors.
· Do not burn candles, liquid fuel or incense. Soot, carbon monoxide, volatile organic compounds and other hydrocarbons are byproducts of combustion.
· Use non chemical pest control methods such as baits, traps or fly swatters instead of pesticides.
· Do not allow any fungicide or biocide to be applied in the ducting system of your house.
· Avoid plug in or aerosol deodorizers or air fresheners. Instead deal with the causes of odours.
· Use unscented biodegradable detergents.
· Avoid the use of bleach and other strong household detergents and cleansers. Replace with greener alternatives.
· Avoid perfumed fabric softeners which leave residual chemical odours.

Building Materials
When possible select low emission materials, paints, sealants and carpets.
· Minimize the use of furniture made of particle board, MDF or plywood, which are potential sources of formaldehyde.
· Run ventilation fans (usually the bathroom fan) for a couple of hours every day to dilute indoor air with fresh air from outside.

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Carbon Monoxide: Protecting your family.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is a colourless and odourless gas which is a common by-product of the combustion of fossil fuels. The burning of natural gas, propane, oil, wood, kerosene and coal produce CO. Exhaust from your car or gas mower also produce this potentially dangerous gas.

Because you can’t see, taste or smell it carbon dioxide cannot easily be detected. It can cause serious health problems ranging from flu like symptoms with mild exposure to unconsciousness and death with extreme exposure. Even low levels of CO can be harmful because it accumulates in the blood and depletes the ability of blood to carry oxygen.

The risk of CO poisoning can be minimized by installing at least one CO detector in your home. Select a unit that is stamped with the Canadian Standard Association (CSA) label. Detectors are available either battery operated or plug in units that plug into an electrical outlet. Care must be taken to replace batteries on a regular basis and plug in devices should not be connected to an outlet controlled by a wall switch. Detectors should be replaced at least every five years.

Most manufacturers specify where you should locate their CO detector. In general, the best place is close to the sleeping areas where you will hear it while sleeping. Follow the manufacturers instructions and install a detector on each floor containing a sleeping area. Test the units regularly to confirm they are operational.

Reducing the risk of CO entering the home is the best defense. To reduce risk:

Have a qualified technician service fuel burning appliances yearly
Have a qualified technician inspect chimneys, dampers and vents for cracks, blockages, corrosion or holes.
Ensure adequate air supply to furnace and hot water appliance rooms, particularly when powerful kitchen fans are used. A qualified technician can check that fumes are not pulled back down the chimney.
Do not start a vehicle or lawnmower in a closed garage. Open the door first and pull the car out immediately. Shut the door to prevent exhaust fumes from being drawn into the house.
Avoid the use of kerosene space heaters.
Maintain the seals around entry doors from the garage to the house and install an automatic closer on the door.
Seal all wall penetrations between an attached garage and the house.
Never operate a barbeque indoors or in an attached garage.

If your detector sounds an alarm, evacuate the house immediately including pets. Notify your neighbours if you live in a duplex, row house or apartment and call your gas utility, heating contractor or fire department.

Maintaining your Heat Recovery Ventilator

Your heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can help make your house a clean, healthy living environment. It improves air quality by removing stale indoor air and continuously replacing it with preheated outdoor air.

An HRV can give many years of trouble free service. All it takes is a little bit of time to keep it running smoothly. The following maintenance schedule is easy to do and takes only a few minutes.

Before performing any maintenance always turn off the HRV and unplug it.


1. Clean or Replace Air Filters: Dirty or clogged filters reduce air flow and ventilation efficiency and should be cleaned about every two months. Open up the front panel and remove the filters. Clean with a vacuum cleaner then wash with mild soap and water before replacing. Older units may have replaceable filters.

2. Check Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Hoods: Check that the outside vents of your HRV are not blocked. Remove leaves, waste paper etc. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents.

3. Inspect the Condensate drain: The condensate drain is usually a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom of the HRV. Slowly pour about two liters of warm, clean water in the drain inside the HRV and watch to see that it is flowing freely. If there is a backup, clean the drain.

4. Clean the Heat Exchange Core : Check your HRV owner’s manual for removing and cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuum and clean with mild soap and water.

5. Clean Grilles and inspect the ductwork: Once a year, remove and inspect the grilles covering the ends of the ducts leading to and from the HRV. Vacuum if necessary.

6. Service the Fans: Make sure the unit is unplugged. Gently brush and remove dirt that has accumulated on the fan blades. Check your manual to see if lubrication is recommended. Older models may require a few drops of lubricating oil whereas newer models are designed to run continuously without lubrication.

7. Arrange for Annual Servicing: Your HRV should be serviced annually by a qualified technician accredited by the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI)


Turn your HRV off in April or May by either turning the dehumidistat control to HIGH setting or OFF
Turn your HRV back on in September or October and reset dehumidistat to 40% to 80%