Clean air is essential to good health and this is especially true when it comes to indoor air.
It is estimated that North Americans spend close to 90% of our time indoors. With the advent of energy conservation and the trend towards tighter, draught free homes, the concentration of indoor air pollution can far exceed outdoor levels.
Some simple steps can control the quality of your indoor air.
Mould
Since moisture promotes mould growth, dampness is one of the most common causes of poor indoor air in homes. Minimize moisture by:
· Measure indoor humidity levels (use a hygrometer available from hardware stores) and maintain levels of around 50% in Summer and 30% in Winter. If necessary use a dehumidifier.
· Make sure that clothes dryers are properly connected and vented outside.
· Repair basement, roof and pipe leaks as soon as you notice them. Clean up after any water damage and dry the area within 48 hours.
· Discard clutter and excess stored materials. Mould can grow on fabrics, paper, wood, carpets etc whenever moisture is present.
· Always use kitchen and bathroom fans to remove moist air at the source. Run bathroom fans for at least 20 minutes after you have finished showering. Check that fans vent outside and not into the attic.
· Open windows when weather permits to provide circulation. Remember though that damp outside air will not dry the air inside.
· Don’t overwater plants and watch for mold growth in containers.
· Vacuum regularly. Central vacuum systems that vent to the outside or vacuums with HEPA filters are preferable.
Chemicals
The most effective way to remove chemical contaminants is to eliminate them at the source. Those that you bring into the house are easier to remove than those that originate from the materials used to build the house.
· Do not smoke or allow visitors to smoke indoors.
· Do not burn candles, liquid fuel or incense. Soot, carbon monoxide, volatile organic compounds and other hydrocarbons are byproducts of combustion.
· Use non chemical pest control methods such as baits, traps or fly swatters instead of pesticides.
· Do not allow any fungicide or biocide to be applied in the ducting system of your house.
· Avoid plug in or aerosol deodorizers or air fresheners. Instead deal with the causes of odours.
· Use unscented biodegradable detergents.
· Avoid the use of bleach and other strong household detergents and cleansers. Replace with greener alternatives.
· Avoid perfumed fabric softeners which leave residual chemical odours.
Building Materials
When possible select low emission materials, paints, sealants and carpets.
· Minimize the use of furniture made of particle board, MDF or plywood, which are potential sources of formaldehyde.
· Run ventilation fans (usually the bathroom fan) for a couple of hours every day to dilute indoor air with fresh air from outside.
www.welcomehomeinspections.ca
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Carbon Monoxide: Protecting your family.
Carbon Monoxide (CO) is a colourless and odourless gas which is a common by-product of the combustion of fossil fuels. The burning of natural gas, propane, oil, wood, kerosene and coal produce CO. Exhaust from your car or gas mower also produce this potentially dangerous gas.
Because you can’t see, taste or smell it carbon dioxide cannot easily be detected. It can cause serious health problems ranging from flu like symptoms with mild exposure to unconsciousness and death with extreme exposure. Even low levels of CO can be harmful because it accumulates in the blood and depletes the ability of blood to carry oxygen.
The risk of CO poisoning can be minimized by installing at least one CO detector in your home. Select a unit that is stamped with the Canadian Standard Association (CSA) label. Detectors are available either battery operated or plug in units that plug into an electrical outlet. Care must be taken to replace batteries on a regular basis and plug in devices should not be connected to an outlet controlled by a wall switch. Detectors should be replaced at least every five years.
Most manufacturers specify where you should locate their CO detector. In general, the best place is close to the sleeping areas where you will hear it while sleeping. Follow the manufacturers instructions and install a detector on each floor containing a sleeping area. Test the units regularly to confirm they are operational.
Reducing the risk of CO entering the home is the best defense. To reduce risk:
Have a qualified technician service fuel burning appliances yearly
Have a qualified technician inspect chimneys, dampers and vents for cracks, blockages, corrosion or holes.
Ensure adequate air supply to furnace and hot water appliance rooms, particularly when powerful kitchen fans are used. A qualified technician can check that fumes are not pulled back down the chimney.
Do not start a vehicle or lawnmower in a closed garage. Open the door first and pull the car out immediately. Shut the door to prevent exhaust fumes from being drawn into the house.
Avoid the use of kerosene space heaters.
Maintain the seals around entry doors from the garage to the house and install an automatic closer on the door.
Seal all wall penetrations between an attached garage and the house.
Never operate a barbeque indoors or in an attached garage.
If your detector sounds an alarm, evacuate the house immediately including pets. Notify your neighbours if you live in a duplex, row house or apartment and call your gas utility, heating contractor or fire department.
Because you can’t see, taste or smell it carbon dioxide cannot easily be detected. It can cause serious health problems ranging from flu like symptoms with mild exposure to unconsciousness and death with extreme exposure. Even low levels of CO can be harmful because it accumulates in the blood and depletes the ability of blood to carry oxygen.
The risk of CO poisoning can be minimized by installing at least one CO detector in your home. Select a unit that is stamped with the Canadian Standard Association (CSA) label. Detectors are available either battery operated or plug in units that plug into an electrical outlet. Care must be taken to replace batteries on a regular basis and plug in devices should not be connected to an outlet controlled by a wall switch. Detectors should be replaced at least every five years.
Most manufacturers specify where you should locate their CO detector. In general, the best place is close to the sleeping areas where you will hear it while sleeping. Follow the manufacturers instructions and install a detector on each floor containing a sleeping area. Test the units regularly to confirm they are operational.
Reducing the risk of CO entering the home is the best defense. To reduce risk:
Have a qualified technician service fuel burning appliances yearly
Have a qualified technician inspect chimneys, dampers and vents for cracks, blockages, corrosion or holes.
Ensure adequate air supply to furnace and hot water appliance rooms, particularly when powerful kitchen fans are used. A qualified technician can check that fumes are not pulled back down the chimney.
Do not start a vehicle or lawnmower in a closed garage. Open the door first and pull the car out immediately. Shut the door to prevent exhaust fumes from being drawn into the house.
Avoid the use of kerosene space heaters.
Maintain the seals around entry doors from the garage to the house and install an automatic closer on the door.
Seal all wall penetrations between an attached garage and the house.
Never operate a barbeque indoors or in an attached garage.
If your detector sounds an alarm, evacuate the house immediately including pets. Notify your neighbours if you live in a duplex, row house or apartment and call your gas utility, heating contractor or fire department.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Maintaining your Heat Recovery Ventilator
Your heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can help make your house a clean, healthy living environment. It improves air quality by removing stale indoor air and continuously replacing it with preheated outdoor air.
An HRV can give many years of trouble free service. All it takes is a little bit of time to keep it running smoothly. The following maintenance schedule is easy to do and takes only a few minutes.
Before performing any maintenance always turn off the HRV and unplug it.
1. Clean or Replace Air Filters: Dirty or clogged filters reduce air flow and ventilation efficiency and should be cleaned about every two months. Open up the front panel and remove the filters. Clean with a vacuum cleaner then wash with mild soap and water before replacing. Older units may have replaceable filters.
2. Check Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Hoods: Check that the outside vents of your HRV are not blocked. Remove leaves, waste paper etc. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents.
3. Inspect the Condensate drain: The condensate drain is usually a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom of the HRV. Slowly pour about two liters of warm, clean water in the drain inside the HRV and watch to see that it is flowing freely. If there is a backup, clean the drain.
4. Clean the Heat Exchange Core : Check your HRV owner’s manual for removing and cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuum and clean with mild soap and water.
5. Clean Grilles and inspect the ductwork: Once a year, remove and inspect the grilles covering the ends of the ducts leading to and from the HRV. Vacuum if necessary.
6. Service the Fans: Make sure the unit is unplugged. Gently brush and remove dirt that has accumulated on the fan blades. Check your manual to see if lubrication is recommended. Older models may require a few drops of lubricating oil whereas newer models are designed to run continuously without lubrication.
7. Arrange for Annual Servicing: Your HRV should be serviced annually by a qualified technician accredited by the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI)
Turn your HRV off in April or May by either turning the dehumidistat control to HIGH setting or OFF
Turn your HRV back on in September or October and reset dehumidistat to 40% to 80%
An HRV can give many years of trouble free service. All it takes is a little bit of time to keep it running smoothly. The following maintenance schedule is easy to do and takes only a few minutes.
Before performing any maintenance always turn off the HRV and unplug it.
1. Clean or Replace Air Filters: Dirty or clogged filters reduce air flow and ventilation efficiency and should be cleaned about every two months. Open up the front panel and remove the filters. Clean with a vacuum cleaner then wash with mild soap and water before replacing. Older units may have replaceable filters.
2. Check Outdoor Intake and Exhaust Hoods: Check that the outside vents of your HRV are not blocked. Remove leaves, waste paper etc. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents.
3. Inspect the Condensate drain: The condensate drain is usually a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom of the HRV. Slowly pour about two liters of warm, clean water in the drain inside the HRV and watch to see that it is flowing freely. If there is a backup, clean the drain.
4. Clean the Heat Exchange Core : Check your HRV owner’s manual for removing and cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuum and clean with mild soap and water.
5. Clean Grilles and inspect the ductwork: Once a year, remove and inspect the grilles covering the ends of the ducts leading to and from the HRV. Vacuum if necessary.
6. Service the Fans: Make sure the unit is unplugged. Gently brush and remove dirt that has accumulated on the fan blades. Check your manual to see if lubrication is recommended. Older models may require a few drops of lubricating oil whereas newer models are designed to run continuously without lubrication.
7. Arrange for Annual Servicing: Your HRV should be serviced annually by a qualified technician accredited by the Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI)
Turn your HRV off in April or May by either turning the dehumidistat control to HIGH setting or OFF
Turn your HRV back on in September or October and reset dehumidistat to 40% to 80%
Sunday, April 6, 2008
New codes for furnace and hot water vents
In Ontario, beginning on August 2007, the Technical Standards and Safety Authority (TSSA) has adopted new national code requirements regarding the installation of plastic venting systems for gas burning appliances such as water heaters, boilers and furnaces.
PVC, CPVC or ABS piping has been used for many years but there have been reported cases of failure due to cracking, melting etc. causing potential unsafe conditions as a result of carbon monoxide leaking into the home. To address this situation the national installation code for natural gas and propane appliances has been revised. The new code stipulates that only plastic piping certified as gas vent (standard ULC S636) can be used for all installations of new and replacement natural gas and propane appliances.
Existing applications will not be affected unless there is a safety issue or the existing vent has deteriorated.
What this means to home owners is that the replacement of any furnace, water heater or boiler whether owned or rented will require upgrading of the plastic venting system. The existing vent will not be permitted to be reused. The cost of replacement and any work necessary to access the piping will be the responsibility of the homeowner.
In special circumstances, customers may apply to the TSSA for a variance, however note that this process will also require additional fees for testing and ongoing inspection in order to qualify. Additional information is available directly from TSSA at http://www.tssa.org/
Orange labels on pipe and fittings are required by
ULC S636 And clearly distinguish a certified gas
venting system from everyday uncertified pipe
PVC, CPVC or ABS piping has been used for many years but there have been reported cases of failure due to cracking, melting etc. causing potential unsafe conditions as a result of carbon monoxide leaking into the home. To address this situation the national installation code for natural gas and propane appliances has been revised. The new code stipulates that only plastic piping certified as gas vent (standard ULC S636) can be used for all installations of new and replacement natural gas and propane appliances.
Existing applications will not be affected unless there is a safety issue or the existing vent has deteriorated.
What this means to home owners is that the replacement of any furnace, water heater or boiler whether owned or rented will require upgrading of the plastic venting system. The existing vent will not be permitted to be reused. The cost of replacement and any work necessary to access the piping will be the responsibility of the homeowner.
In special circumstances, customers may apply to the TSSA for a variance, however note that this process will also require additional fees for testing and ongoing inspection in order to qualify. Additional information is available directly from TSSA at http://www.tssa.org/
Orange labels on pipe and fittings are required by
ULC S636 And clearly distinguish a certified gas
venting system from everyday uncertified pipe
Thursday, March 27, 2008
Introduction
Hello,
Welcome to Inspection Matters. The purpose of this Blog is to present technical information related to the field of Home Inspection. Please note that all information provided relates to the Province of Ontario, Canada and may not be relevant or current for other areas. Local By-Laws and Codes may vary.
I hope that you will find something of interest or an answer to your questions.
You can also check out my Library at www.welcomehomeinspections.ca
Regards
JohnA
Welcome to Inspection Matters. The purpose of this Blog is to present technical information related to the field of Home Inspection. Please note that all information provided relates to the Province of Ontario, Canada and may not be relevant or current for other areas. Local By-Laws and Codes may vary.
I hope that you will find something of interest or an answer to your questions.
You can also check out my Library at www.welcomehomeinspections.ca
Regards
JohnA
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