I am often asked by homeowners if I recommend tankless water heaters. Some manufacturers claim they can cut energy costs by up to 50%.
So is it time to switch.
Well if you live in Ontario, probably not. ( In my opinion )
There is no question that Tankless water heaters also known as On Demand water heaters are more efficient and have operated in Eurpope quite successfully for many years. This was the major drive in bringing them to North America.
Consumer tests on a variety of on demand heaters have indicated actual average savings of 22% over conventional hot water tank heaters. This translates to actual savings of $70 to $100 /year depending on your energy costs.
The major difference between Eurpope and Ontario is the average temperature of the incoming ground water. In Ontario the ground water can be as low as 35 degF in winter. This means that the temperature rise to bring the water to 120 degF (recommended temperature) is significantly higher than Europe. For this reason high powered burners are required (as high as 200,000 Btu/hr) to provide the flow rates requried for most family homes. Compare this to the average furnace running at 60,000 Btu/hr.
Common problems appear to be:
1. Inconsistant water temperatures particularly under high demand when you are running mulitiple things at the same time.
2. High Up front costs for the unit and for specialized installation.
3. High maintenance costs. Some units require annual flushing (at a cost of $ 130 to $150 )
Bottom line is that with an annual saving of $ 70 per year it could take over 20 years to recover initial purchase cost. Typical lifespan of an actual unit is expected to be 12 to 15 years. Add in the cost of maintenance and the savings more than dissapppear.
If you need a new hot water heater today then my recommendation is to replace you tank unit for now. If you can wait 12 – 24 months then high efficiency tank heaters are being developed and introduced which will be much more efficient.
For more information on How tankless water heaters work:
http://www.tanklesswaterheaterguide.com/
Friday, March 23, 2012
Thursday, March 22, 2012
Maintenance check list
Inspecting your home on a regular basis and following good maintenance practices are the best way to protect your investment in your home. Whether you take care of a few tasks at a time or several all at once, it is important to get into the habit of doing them. Establish a routine for yourself, and you will find the work is easy to accomplish and not very time-consuming. A regular schedule of seasonal maintenance can put a stop to the most common — and costly — problems, before they occur.
The following website includes a very usefull checklist for a healthy, well maintained home.
http://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/documents/huddoc?id=DOC_12334.pdf
The following website includes a very usefull checklist for a healthy, well maintained home.
http://portal.hud.gov/hudportal/documents/huddoc?id=DOC_12334.pdf
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
Measuring Humidity in your home
Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. Indoor air increases in humidity as we go about daily living. We add water vapor to indoor air through routine household activities such as showering, cooking, dishwashing and breathing.
We need a certain amount of humidity for comfort and health. However too much humidity often can be seen in the wintertime when homes are closed up and ventilation is limited. Usually it is seen as condensation on windows, musty smells, and mold growth. Low humidity can cause static sparks, dry skin and scratchy nose and throat. High or low humidity levels can also damage wood furniture and flooring.
Using a Hygrometer.
In order to control humidity in your home, it is first necessary to measure it. This is done using an inexpensive instrument called a hygrometer available at most large hardware stores or garden centres. These instruments measure relative humidity (RH). What that means is they measure the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount of moisture that the air could hold at that temperature. RH is expressed as a percentage. For example if the air temperature is 70 degF and the air contains all the moisture it can hold at that temperature, then the RH is 100%. If the same air contains only half the amount of moisture, then the relative humidity is 50%. RH changes with temperature. Warm air is capable of holding more moisture than cold air.
There are two types of hygrometer, mechanical or electronic and either type is suitable. Hygrometers are relatively inexpensive and not particularly accurate devices so variations of plus or minus 2% can be expected. This is quite accurate enough for most indoor applications. Follow manufacturer’s directions for calibration of the units if necessary.
At any particular time the RH in a home will vary from floor to floor or room to room. Choose the area you wish to measure and leave the hygrometer in that location for a couple of hours before taking a reading. When moving to other locations always allow a couple of hours for the unit to stabilize.
What should the humidity be in my home?
There are no strict rules for humidity levels. Some people are more comfortable at lower humidity levels than others. However, the experts generally agree that maintaining a level of 30% to 50% during the heating season is advisable. I personally prefer the lower end of the scale at 30-40% This will prevent moisture condensation on most double glazed windows and protect wood furniture and flooring. Generally the lower the temperature outside, the lower the indoor RH should be. When outdoor temperature is 14degF (-10 degC) or below then recommended RH is 30 %.
How do I adjust the humidity in my home?
Ideal humidity should be between 30% and 40%.
In summer time humidity can be controlled by using a dehumidifier or running an air conditioner. Either unit will reduce the moisture content in the air. Dehumifiers are not as efficient as central air conditioners and are more suitable for smaller areas or a specific room.
In winter time, high humidity must be controlled by ventilation, increased air flow and reduced moisture generation. If condensation is visible on windows then it is likely that condensation is occurring in other cold areas as well. Warm, moist air travels through the building structure and will condense when it reaches its dew point (a cold surface). Excess moisture plus a food source encourages mold growth.
1. To minimize moisture generation. Always operate ventilation fans when cooking , bathing or showering. Bathroom fans are relatively low flow and should continue to run for a minimum of 20 minutes after showering.
2. Deal with any problems such as a damp basement, roof leaks, excessive plants, excessive aquariums and any other sources of moisture.
3. If you have a humidifier on your furnace. Turn it off or turn the humidistat down to add less moisture to the recirculating air.
If low humidity is the problem:
Air tighten the house. Seal all air gaps where cold outside air can enter the home. This includes vents dryer ducts, electrical outlets.
Install a humidifier. Humidifiers, both stand alone and furnace mounted will increase indoor RH levels. Be aware that they can also be sources of excess moisture and mold in your home so adjustment and ongoing maintenance will be necessary.
We need a certain amount of humidity for comfort and health. However too much humidity often can be seen in the wintertime when homes are closed up and ventilation is limited. Usually it is seen as condensation on windows, musty smells, and mold growth. Low humidity can cause static sparks, dry skin and scratchy nose and throat. High or low humidity levels can also damage wood furniture and flooring.
Using a Hygrometer.
In order to control humidity in your home, it is first necessary to measure it. This is done using an inexpensive instrument called a hygrometer available at most large hardware stores or garden centres. These instruments measure relative humidity (RH). What that means is they measure the amount of moisture in the air relative to the maximum amount of moisture that the air could hold at that temperature. RH is expressed as a percentage. For example if the air temperature is 70 degF and the air contains all the moisture it can hold at that temperature, then the RH is 100%. If the same air contains only half the amount of moisture, then the relative humidity is 50%. RH changes with temperature. Warm air is capable of holding more moisture than cold air.
There are two types of hygrometer, mechanical or electronic and either type is suitable. Hygrometers are relatively inexpensive and not particularly accurate devices so variations of plus or minus 2% can be expected. This is quite accurate enough for most indoor applications. Follow manufacturer’s directions for calibration of the units if necessary.
At any particular time the RH in a home will vary from floor to floor or room to room. Choose the area you wish to measure and leave the hygrometer in that location for a couple of hours before taking a reading. When moving to other locations always allow a couple of hours for the unit to stabilize.
What should the humidity be in my home?
There are no strict rules for humidity levels. Some people are more comfortable at lower humidity levels than others. However, the experts generally agree that maintaining a level of 30% to 50% during the heating season is advisable. I personally prefer the lower end of the scale at 30-40% This will prevent moisture condensation on most double glazed windows and protect wood furniture and flooring. Generally the lower the temperature outside, the lower the indoor RH should be. When outdoor temperature is 14degF (-10 degC) or below then recommended RH is 30 %.
How do I adjust the humidity in my home?
Ideal humidity should be between 30% and 40%.
In summer time humidity can be controlled by using a dehumidifier or running an air conditioner. Either unit will reduce the moisture content in the air. Dehumifiers are not as efficient as central air conditioners and are more suitable for smaller areas or a specific room.
In winter time, high humidity must be controlled by ventilation, increased air flow and reduced moisture generation. If condensation is visible on windows then it is likely that condensation is occurring in other cold areas as well. Warm, moist air travels through the building structure and will condense when it reaches its dew point (a cold surface). Excess moisture plus a food source encourages mold growth.
1. To minimize moisture generation. Always operate ventilation fans when cooking , bathing or showering. Bathroom fans are relatively low flow and should continue to run for a minimum of 20 minutes after showering.
2. Deal with any problems such as a damp basement, roof leaks, excessive plants, excessive aquariums and any other sources of moisture.
3. If you have a humidifier on your furnace. Turn it off or turn the humidistat down to add less moisture to the recirculating air.
If low humidity is the problem:
Air tighten the house. Seal all air gaps where cold outside air can enter the home. This includes vents dryer ducts, electrical outlets.
Install a humidifier. Humidifiers, both stand alone and furnace mounted will increase indoor RH levels. Be aware that they can also be sources of excess moisture and mold in your home so adjustment and ongoing maintenance will be necessary.
Friday, December 2, 2011
Save energy with ceiling fans
Flip the switch on ceiling fans.
Ceiling fans are very popular these days, with people ‘warming up’ to their many benefits. They increase comfort by reducing drafts in winter and creating a breeze in the warm temps, lower furnace and air conditioner usage, and can really make a statement in your décor. But ceiling fans are only beneficial all year long if you if you have them blowing the right way.
More commonly linked with warm weather, many people still tend to stop using their fans when cooler weather hits. But more and more people are realizing their benefit in winter and are actually purchasing them more for use in fall, winter and spring rather than in the summer.
The trick is to have the fan directing air down when it’s warm out and up when it’s cool. The downdraft in hot weather will create a cooling breeze. Reversing the flow in cool months will distribute the air – and warmth that tends to collect at the ceiling – to all levels of a room, making chilly drafts less likely.
So before it gets too cold outside, flip the switch on your ceiling fans and start enjoying their cool weather benefit.
Fan Tips
• Generally speaking, only use the lowest speed in winter to avoid creating a breeze that can feel cool and defeat the purpose of flipping the switch, unless…
• If your ceiling fan is installed in a room with a high ceiling, in addition to flipping the switch in winter, you should use the fan at medium or high speed - to help circulate that larger volume of warm air trapped at the ceiling.
• If you have a ceiling fan directly over a dining table or desk, keep it in ‘winter mode’ all year long to prevent cooling off the food. Instead, use a high speed in summer to create a less direct, but still cooling breeze.
Ceiling fans are very popular these days, with people ‘warming up’ to their many benefits. They increase comfort by reducing drafts in winter and creating a breeze in the warm temps, lower furnace and air conditioner usage, and can really make a statement in your décor. But ceiling fans are only beneficial all year long if you if you have them blowing the right way.
More commonly linked with warm weather, many people still tend to stop using their fans when cooler weather hits. But more and more people are realizing their benefit in winter and are actually purchasing them more for use in fall, winter and spring rather than in the summer.
The trick is to have the fan directing air down when it’s warm out and up when it’s cool. The downdraft in hot weather will create a cooling breeze. Reversing the flow in cool months will distribute the air – and warmth that tends to collect at the ceiling – to all levels of a room, making chilly drafts less likely.
So before it gets too cold outside, flip the switch on your ceiling fans and start enjoying their cool weather benefit.
Fan Tips
• Generally speaking, only use the lowest speed in winter to avoid creating a breeze that can feel cool and defeat the purpose of flipping the switch, unless…
• If your ceiling fan is installed in a room with a high ceiling, in addition to flipping the switch in winter, you should use the fan at medium or high speed - to help circulate that larger volume of warm air trapped at the ceiling.
• If you have a ceiling fan directly over a dining table or desk, keep it in ‘winter mode’ all year long to prevent cooling off the food. Instead, use a high speed in summer to create a less direct, but still cooling breeze.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
How do I get the ventilation that I need in my house
If your house is stuffy, odours linger, or humidity is high in fall and winter, it is likely that your house does not have adequate fresh air. If you or your children have respiratory conditions, such as asthma, bronchitis or chronic colds, getting the proper amount of fresh air is even more important.
The design, construction and maintenance of a home determine the amount of exchange between indoor and outdoor air. Since most home pollutants come primarily from indoor sources then bringing in outdoor air can help lower the concentration of pollutants in the home.
Today’s modern homes are relatively air tight and are constructed to resist air entry through use of air barriers, vapour barriers and sheet materials such as plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) and drywall. All this was done in the name of energy efficiency but little thought was given to the effect on air quality. Homes have in fact become so air tight that you must induce air change by the use of mechanical ventilation in order to maintain good indoor air quality.
Older homes did not have this problem. They were often drafty and very dry in winter due to high air change rates. Sealing up these homes is usually the major issue in order to reduce heating requirements.
Ventilation:
There are a number of ventilation mechanisms that occur in any home:
1. Air infiltration: This is the air that naturally comes into the house through leaks in doors, windows, openings and gaps.
2. Mechanical ventilation: Air pulled into the house by using ventilation fans such as kitchen fans, bathroom fans and clothes dryers.
3. Stack effect: We know that hot air rises. When cold air comes into the basement and is warmed up, it rises and moves through the house eventually leaving through the attic to the outside.
4. Distribution: Fresh air coming into the house needs to be moved around. This usually requires fans and ducting systems.
At certain times of the year, when temperatures are mild and there is a light breeze then opening windows can provide good ventilation. In older homes open windows were the standard ventilation even for bathrooms, but these should be upgraded when remodelling to provide a fan that vents to the exterior. In newer homes or remodelled older homes, using mechanical ventilation or a heat recovery ventilator can be more effective particularly during cold winter months or when air conditioning is in use.
Bathroom fans provide basic ventilation. The fan removes stale air from the house and natural infiltration through the various leaks allows outdoor air to enter. The furnace fan and ducting system, if present, mixes this fresh air with house air and distributes it around the house. In many new houses a ” ventilation switch” is installed next to the thermostat which operates the bathroom fan. In some cases this is also electrically connected to the furnace fan.
Ventilation fans should be run for a few hours a day. These fans should be relatively low flow (about 50 cu ft/minute) and as quiet as possible so that they are not annoying. Sound levels less than 1.5 sones are best.
Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV) are becoming increasingly common particularly in new homes. They provide good ventilation without too much additional energy cost. The HRV vents out stale air and brings in the same amount of fresh air. This is known as a balanced system and should be calibrated yearly. The units are designed so that some of the heat in the outgoing air is used to warm up the incoming fresh air. Basic systems are connected into the existing furnace ductwork. Efficiencies of 60 to 80% are quoted but I doubt that this level is achieved in normal operation. (Just my opinion!!) The furnace fan also needs to run to distribute the fresh air around the house.
Separately ducted HRV’s are also available where the HRV fan motor distributes the fresh air and collects the stale air through its own ducting system. Although more expensive to install, this system does not need to run the furnace fan and is therefore more energy efficient in the long term.
HRV’s should be used anytime the house is normally closed up. They should be run continuously at low speed and switched to high for parties or other times when you want more ventilation.
Summary:
Improving ventilation may lower the concentration of pollutants in your home. Most homes will benefit from the fresh air supplied by mechanical ventilation. Opening windows and doors will increase the natural ventilation and exhaust fans will remove moisture and draw in fresh air by infiltration. For tightly sealed houses a HRV system may be necessary.
Safety Note: Be aware that over sizing kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans is not advisable. High exhaust rates can cause lower pressures within the home. This in turn can cause dangerous Carbon Monoxide to be drawn into the home from gas fired appliances such as furnaces or hot water heaters or from wood burning stoves etc. If in doubt, check with a qualified Heating/Ventilation expert.
The design, construction and maintenance of a home determine the amount of exchange between indoor and outdoor air. Since most home pollutants come primarily from indoor sources then bringing in outdoor air can help lower the concentration of pollutants in the home.
Today’s modern homes are relatively air tight and are constructed to resist air entry through use of air barriers, vapour barriers and sheet materials such as plywood, oriented strand board (OSB) and drywall. All this was done in the name of energy efficiency but little thought was given to the effect on air quality. Homes have in fact become so air tight that you must induce air change by the use of mechanical ventilation in order to maintain good indoor air quality.
Older homes did not have this problem. They were often drafty and very dry in winter due to high air change rates. Sealing up these homes is usually the major issue in order to reduce heating requirements.
Ventilation:
There are a number of ventilation mechanisms that occur in any home:
1. Air infiltration: This is the air that naturally comes into the house through leaks in doors, windows, openings and gaps.
2. Mechanical ventilation: Air pulled into the house by using ventilation fans such as kitchen fans, bathroom fans and clothes dryers.
3. Stack effect: We know that hot air rises. When cold air comes into the basement and is warmed up, it rises and moves through the house eventually leaving through the attic to the outside.
4. Distribution: Fresh air coming into the house needs to be moved around. This usually requires fans and ducting systems.
At certain times of the year, when temperatures are mild and there is a light breeze then opening windows can provide good ventilation. In older homes open windows were the standard ventilation even for bathrooms, but these should be upgraded when remodelling to provide a fan that vents to the exterior. In newer homes or remodelled older homes, using mechanical ventilation or a heat recovery ventilator can be more effective particularly during cold winter months or when air conditioning is in use.
Bathroom fans provide basic ventilation. The fan removes stale air from the house and natural infiltration through the various leaks allows outdoor air to enter. The furnace fan and ducting system, if present, mixes this fresh air with house air and distributes it around the house. In many new houses a ” ventilation switch” is installed next to the thermostat which operates the bathroom fan. In some cases this is also electrically connected to the furnace fan.
Ventilation fans should be run for a few hours a day. These fans should be relatively low flow (about 50 cu ft/minute) and as quiet as possible so that they are not annoying. Sound levels less than 1.5 sones are best.
Heat Recovery Ventilators (HRV) are becoming increasingly common particularly in new homes. They provide good ventilation without too much additional energy cost. The HRV vents out stale air and brings in the same amount of fresh air. This is known as a balanced system and should be calibrated yearly. The units are designed so that some of the heat in the outgoing air is used to warm up the incoming fresh air. Basic systems are connected into the existing furnace ductwork. Efficiencies of 60 to 80% are quoted but I doubt that this level is achieved in normal operation. (Just my opinion!!) The furnace fan also needs to run to distribute the fresh air around the house.
Separately ducted HRV’s are also available where the HRV fan motor distributes the fresh air and collects the stale air through its own ducting system. Although more expensive to install, this system does not need to run the furnace fan and is therefore more energy efficient in the long term.
HRV’s should be used anytime the house is normally closed up. They should be run continuously at low speed and switched to high for parties or other times when you want more ventilation.
Summary:
Improving ventilation may lower the concentration of pollutants in your home. Most homes will benefit from the fresh air supplied by mechanical ventilation. Opening windows and doors will increase the natural ventilation and exhaust fans will remove moisture and draw in fresh air by infiltration. For tightly sealed houses a HRV system may be necessary.
Safety Note: Be aware that over sizing kitchen or bathroom exhaust fans is not advisable. High exhaust rates can cause lower pressures within the home. This in turn can cause dangerous Carbon Monoxide to be drawn into the home from gas fired appliances such as furnaces or hot water heaters or from wood burning stoves etc. If in doubt, check with a qualified Heating/Ventilation expert.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Do I need to be concerned about lead in my home?
From the early 19th century through to the 1940’s almost all household paints contained lead pigments. Lead content, when the paint is dry could be as high as 65%. Many manufacturers began to phase out their use of lead in the 1950’s but lead based additives were not banned until the late 70’s.
What this means is that a house built before 1978 may or may not contain lead paint but a house built before 1950 almost certainly does.
In its cured form paint containing lead does not pose a serious problem. However, dust from sanding or fumes from a torch used to remove paint can result in dangerous levels of lead being absorbed into the bloodstream. Lead poisoning can affect all ages, but children are at most risk.
In general, lead based paints were used on exterior surfaces and interior trim or glossy wall surfaces such as kitchens and bathrooms. The only way to know for sure is to test. Inexpensive test kits are available from hardware stores or samples can be sent to a laboratory for testing. Be sure to cut through layers of paint to get to the underlying surfaces when taking samples.
It is important to remember that lead dust is the problem and good maintenance is the key to eliminating or controlling the spread of the dust. Cracking, peeling paint surfaces or friction surfaces such as sticking windows or doors can grind the paint into dust during daily use. Because it’s heavy, lead dust doesn’t travel very far. Most of the dust produced by a troublesome double hung window will likely settle on the sill or nearby on the floor. Using soapy water and a wet cloth can quickly and effectively wipe this away. Lead dust particles are very small, so it is important to be aware that they can pass through the filter of a conventional vacuum cleaner. This means you could be distributing the dust throughout the home. To avoid contaminating an entire room, a vacuum with a HEPA filter should be used.
Remodelling an area containing lead paint probably poses the greatest health risk as it is almost impossible not to generate dust during deconstruction. Whether you are using a contractor, or doing it yourself, be sure to plan the steps that are required to contain the dust. Areas should be sealed with 6 mil polyethylene, heat registers and returns should be sealed. All joints should be taped. In some cases surfaces can be wet down. Dust masks are not suitable; a half face respirator with HEPA filter is needed. Many US States now require contractors to be certified in dealing with renovations involving lead paint. Keep in mind that working on the exterior of the home still requires lead dust containment and suitable safety equipment such as coveralls, masks and HEPA vacuums.
In general, a clean well maintained home containing lead paint should not present a health risk providing safety guidelines are followed.
For additional information visit
Health Canada website: http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/iyh-vsv/prod/paint-peinture-eng.php
EPA website: http://www.epa.gov/lead/
What this means is that a house built before 1978 may or may not contain lead paint but a house built before 1950 almost certainly does.
In its cured form paint containing lead does not pose a serious problem. However, dust from sanding or fumes from a torch used to remove paint can result in dangerous levels of lead being absorbed into the bloodstream. Lead poisoning can affect all ages, but children are at most risk.
In general, lead based paints were used on exterior surfaces and interior trim or glossy wall surfaces such as kitchens and bathrooms. The only way to know for sure is to test. Inexpensive test kits are available from hardware stores or samples can be sent to a laboratory for testing. Be sure to cut through layers of paint to get to the underlying surfaces when taking samples.
It is important to remember that lead dust is the problem and good maintenance is the key to eliminating or controlling the spread of the dust. Cracking, peeling paint surfaces or friction surfaces such as sticking windows or doors can grind the paint into dust during daily use. Because it’s heavy, lead dust doesn’t travel very far. Most of the dust produced by a troublesome double hung window will likely settle on the sill or nearby on the floor. Using soapy water and a wet cloth can quickly and effectively wipe this away. Lead dust particles are very small, so it is important to be aware that they can pass through the filter of a conventional vacuum cleaner. This means you could be distributing the dust throughout the home. To avoid contaminating an entire room, a vacuum with a HEPA filter should be used.
Remodelling an area containing lead paint probably poses the greatest health risk as it is almost impossible not to generate dust during deconstruction. Whether you are using a contractor, or doing it yourself, be sure to plan the steps that are required to contain the dust. Areas should be sealed with 6 mil polyethylene, heat registers and returns should be sealed. All joints should be taped. In some cases surfaces can be wet down. Dust masks are not suitable; a half face respirator with HEPA filter is needed. Many US States now require contractors to be certified in dealing with renovations involving lead paint. Keep in mind that working on the exterior of the home still requires lead dust containment and suitable safety equipment such as coveralls, masks and HEPA vacuums.
In general, a clean well maintained home containing lead paint should not present a health risk providing safety guidelines are followed.
For additional information visit
Health Canada website: http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/iyh-vsv/prod/paint-peinture-eng.php
EPA website: http://www.epa.gov/lead/
Monday, September 27, 2010
Air Duct Cleaning- The difference between Hype and Health
Air duct cleaning is a big business. Homeowners are often inundated with solicitations from air duct cleaning services warning about the dangers of unhealthy Indoor Air Quality (IAQ). Asserting that regular furnace air duct cleaning will provide multiple benefits, including:
• Elimination or reduction of household allergens; such as mold, pollen, animal hair, and other contaminants.
• Improved IAQ.
• Elimination of house dust settling on furnishings.
• HVAC system energy improvement, resulting in lower fuel costs.
• Enhanced air flow for better heating and cooling.
According to research conducted by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) during the 1990s claims of dramatic improvements by cleaning ducts were exaggerated. Researchers found there was almost no measureable difference between the amount of airborne particles in ducts after cleaning.
Dust is always present in a home. Most dust gets tracked in or is created inside by human skin and hair shedding, pet debris and fibres from various sources such as carpet or clothing. Regardless of whether the ducts have been cleaned, there will always be a “cloud” of these various particlesin the home. A good quality air filter is therefor recommended to help keep air blown through the furnace fan and ductwork clean. Change air filters regularly according to manufacturers recommendations.
Valid Reasons for Air Duct Cleaning
Duct cleaning is recommended under some conditions:
• Newly constructed or renovated homes
• Large air ducts with a noticably slow air flow.
• When moisture intrusion in the air ducts has resulted in mold growth
• When ducting has been infested by rodents, insects or other vermin
• When a blockage or partial blockage has norticeably reduced air flow.
What to Look for in a Service Provider
There are different types of air ducts requiring different cleaning procedures as well as different cleaning products. An air duct cleaning service that works closely with an HVAC contractor will be knowledgable about the whole HVAC system.
A good duct cleaning contractor will be certified and belong to a trade association such as the National Air Duct Cleaning Association. (NADCA) They should provide thorough cleaning for all parts of the system, including cooling coils, drain pan, and the fan or blower compartment as well as fan or blower blades. Ask for references from satisfied customers.
They should perform a viual inspection after completion of the work.
Do not allow any company to apply disinfectant or biocide to the HVAC system by fogging or spray. No such products have been registered or approved under Canada’s Pest Control Products Act for duct cleaning purposes. Current research indicates that these products can be health risks.
• Elimination or reduction of household allergens; such as mold, pollen, animal hair, and other contaminants.
• Improved IAQ.
• Elimination of house dust settling on furnishings.
• HVAC system energy improvement, resulting in lower fuel costs.
• Enhanced air flow for better heating and cooling.
According to research conducted by Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) and the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) during the 1990s claims of dramatic improvements by cleaning ducts were exaggerated. Researchers found there was almost no measureable difference between the amount of airborne particles in ducts after cleaning.
Dust is always present in a home. Most dust gets tracked in or is created inside by human skin and hair shedding, pet debris and fibres from various sources such as carpet or clothing. Regardless of whether the ducts have been cleaned, there will always be a “cloud” of these various particlesin the home. A good quality air filter is therefor recommended to help keep air blown through the furnace fan and ductwork clean. Change air filters regularly according to manufacturers recommendations.
Valid Reasons for Air Duct Cleaning
Duct cleaning is recommended under some conditions:
• Newly constructed or renovated homes
• Large air ducts with a noticably slow air flow.
• When moisture intrusion in the air ducts has resulted in mold growth
• When ducting has been infested by rodents, insects or other vermin
• When a blockage or partial blockage has norticeably reduced air flow.
What to Look for in a Service Provider
There are different types of air ducts requiring different cleaning procedures as well as different cleaning products. An air duct cleaning service that works closely with an HVAC contractor will be knowledgable about the whole HVAC system.
A good duct cleaning contractor will be certified and belong to a trade association such as the National Air Duct Cleaning Association. (NADCA) They should provide thorough cleaning for all parts of the system, including cooling coils, drain pan, and the fan or blower compartment as well as fan or blower blades. Ask for references from satisfied customers.
They should perform a viual inspection after completion of the work.
Do not allow any company to apply disinfectant or biocide to the HVAC system by fogging or spray. No such products have been registered or approved under Canada’s Pest Control Products Act for duct cleaning purposes. Current research indicates that these products can be health risks.
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